Kwisitudiyo esikumbindi weParis, abaqulunqi beminqwazi basebenza nzima kwiidesika zabo koomatshini bokuthunga abasebenza ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-50. Iminqwazi, ihonjiswe ngeribhoni emnyama, kunye nee-fedoras zemivundla, iminqwazi yentsimbi kunye neminye iminqwazi ethambileyo, yenziwa kwiworkshop encinci kaMademoiselle Chapeaux, uphawu olwazalwa kwiminyaka emithandathu eyadlulayo olwalukhokele umnqwazi woKuvuselelwa.

Omnye umntu ohamba phambili nguMaison Michel, elinye lawona magama makhulu kwaye akhula ngokukhawuleza kwiminqwazi ephezulu, evule i-boutique ePrintemps eParis kwinyanga ephelileyo. Uhlobo olulandelayo lwegama libandakanya uFerrell Williams, u-Alexa Chung noJessica Alba.

"Umnqwazi waba yinto entsha," utshilo uPriscilla Royer, umlawuli wezobugcisa kwilebheli yakhe. Ngandlel 'ithile, kufana nomvambo omtsha. ”

EParis ngeminyaka yoo-1920, bekukho ivenkile yeminqwazi phantse kuyo yonke ikona, kwaye akukho ndoda okanye mfazi uzihloniphayo oshiye ikhaya engenawo umnqwazi. Umnqwazi luphawu lobume, hayi ngelo xesha okanye indlela eya kwihlabathi lefashoni: uninzi lweeminerali ezidumileyo kamva lukhula lube ngumyili wefashoni okhulileyo, kubandakanya uGabrielle chanel (igama lakhe ngu-miss Coco odume kakhulu), uKanu Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin) kwaye (2) kwinkulungwane eyadlulayo uRoss bell temple (uRose Bertin) - nguMariya. U-Antoinette Queen (uKumkanikazi uMarie Antoinette) ongumthungi. Kodwa emva kwentshukumo yabafundi yowe-1968 eParis, abantu abancinci baseFrance bayishiya imikhwa yabazali babo bekhetha inkululeko entsha, kwaye neminqwazi yawa.

Ngama-1980, ubugcisa bendabuko benkulungwane ye-19 bokwenza iminqwazi, njengokuthunga umnqwazi weengca kunye nokuthunga umnqwazi woboya, kwase kuphelile. Kodwa ngoku, ukufezekisa ibango elandayo leminqwazi eyenziwe ngezandla, iminqwazi ye-bespoke, ezi ndlela zibuyile kwaye zavuselelwa sisizukulwana esitsha seentshaba.

Imakethi yomnqwazi ixabisa malunga ne- $ 15 yeebhiliyoni ngonyaka, ngokwe-Euromonitor, inkampani yophando yentengiso- iqhezu lemarike yesikhwama sehlabathi, esixabisa i $ 52bn.

Kodwa abenzi beminqwazi abanjengoJanessa Leone, uGigi Burris kunye noGladys Tamez bonke bakhula ngokukhawuleza, ii-odolo zingena zivela kwihlabathi liphela, nokuba azikho eParis kodwa kwiidolophu ezinkulu ezinjengeNew York okanye eLos Angeles.

Abathengisi eParis, eLondon naseShanghai nabo bathi baqaphele ukwanda okukhulu kwintengiso yeminqwazi. Zombini iLe Bon Marche kunye neempapasho, iivenkile eziphezulu zaseParis ezinoLVMH Moet uHennessy uLouis Vuitton, baqaphele ukwanda kwemfuno yeminqwazi yamadoda neyabafazi kwezi kota zintathu zidlulileyo.

I-rane lane crawford, eneevenkile e-Hong Kong nakwilizwekazi lase China, ithe inyuse nje ukuthengwa kwayo ngeminqwazi ngama-50% kwaye iminqwazi ibe yenye yezona zinto zithengiswayo zefashoni.

U-Andrew Keith, ongusihlalo wale nkampani, uthe: “Izitayile ezithandwayo zihlala zisebenza kwakhona kwezakudala - ii-fedoras, iipanama kunye neebrim zamadoda nabasetyhini. Siye sanabathengi besithi bayathanda ukunxiba iminqwazi xa bengakhathali, kuba yinto yendalo kwaye ayiqhelekanga, kodwa isesitayeleni kwaye isitayile.

Umthengisi okwi-Intanethi u-net-a-porter uthi i-fedoras isesona sitayile sithandwa ngabathengi babo, ngaphandle kokuphakama kwangoku kwintengiso yeekati kunye neminqwazi ye-beanie.

U-Lisa Aiken, umlawuli wefashoni kwintengiso ye-net-a-porter, ngoku eyinxalenye ye-mil-based yase-Yoox net-a-porter group, uthe: "abathengi baya besomelela kwaye bezithemba ngakumbi ekuzameni indlela yabo yobuqu." Ummandla okhule kakhulu ekuthengiseni umnqwazi yiAsia, kunye nokuthengiswa kweminqwazi e-China inyuke ngepesenti ye-14 kwi-2016 ukusuka kwixesha elifanayo kunyaka ophelileyo, utshilo.

UStephen Jones, umyili wesigqoko osekwe e-london owasungula ilebheli yakhe kwaye wayila kunye nevenkile ezininzi zeefashoni zabasetyhini kubandakanya i-dior kunye ne-Azzedine Alaia, uthi akazange axakeke ngaphambili.

Wongeze wathi: “iminqwazi ayisekho malunga nodumo; Yenza abantu babonakale bepholile kwaye bekhona ngakumbi. Umnqwazi ungongeza intlantsi kweli hlabathi lanamhlanje linobuqhophololo kunye neentloni. ”